We took a trip out to the mouth of Otago Harbour during autumn. ^ This is the view of Port Chalmers, in the midst of said harbour, looking back down the windy ribbony road to Aramoana, path to the sea in Maori.
Aramoana and its beaches occupy the western side of the heads and are a fairly decent, non-life threatening surf break, nice walking and the chance to see the local avian and marine wildlife.
Below; still on the way out there. Some of the small bays along the road are good for cockles (Littleneck Clams) and the occasional scallop. There's fuck-all dairying around here and very few sewage outfalls so the water is cleaner than you might think.
Aramoana and its beaches occupy the western side of the heads and are a fairly decent, non-life threatening surf break, nice walking and the chance to see the local avian and marine wildlife.
Below; still on the way out there. Some of the small bays along the road are good for cockles (Littleneck Clams) and the occasional scallop. There's fuck-all dairying around here and very few sewage outfalls so the water is cleaner than you might think.
Above: Looking across the from the mole at Aramoana toward Karitane and the Silver peaks of the Otago coast. Delightful progressive types tried their hardest to obliterate this landscape with an enormous aluminium smelter in the early 70's, to the horror of everyone with a viable IQ.
Thankfully logistics and local opposition prevailed and all that remains of that shitty prospect is this gimpy old mole, which extends for over a kilometre into the Pacific ocean.
Orcas, dolphins, Right and Humpback whales migrate right past here on their way to and from Antartica. The larger species occasionally enter the harbour but their memories are long (their putative lifespans exceed 200 years) and people are only just beginning to regain their trust.
I hope we deserve it. I fear that we don't.
Thankfully logistics and local opposition prevailed and all that remains of that shitty prospect is this gimpy old mole, which extends for over a kilometre into the Pacific ocean.
Orcas, dolphins, Right and Humpback whales migrate right past here on their way to and from Antartica. The larger species occasionally enter the harbour but their memories are long (their putative lifespans exceed 200 years) and people are only just beginning to regain their trust.
I hope we deserve it. I fear that we don't.
Terns, gulls and shags appreciate the mole's amenities and their olfactory signature can be pretty intense on a hot day. White Fronted Terns Sterna striata breed in and around the harbour though their populations are apparently declining. They are still a pretty visible presence locally, their slim, swept wings rendering them incredibly agile in the air. Watching them plummet like shards of white glass into the black water after fish makes you wonder how their hollow honeycomb bones can sustain the assault, but they emerge, unfazed, their sabre beaks full of silver.
Black Fronted and Caspian Terns also frequent the area.
Black Fronted and Caspian Terns also frequent the area.
| Above: The eastern flank of the harbour terminates in Taiaroa Head, home to a lighthouse and the only mainland Royal Albatross breeding colony on the planet. Albatross need all the help they can get due to the massive assault on their global populations both from overfishing and bycatch mortality. But when we went to the Royal Albatross tourist centre we thought the tour charges (upwards of $100 for a family) were pretty obscene and in fact prohibitive to the majority of local punters. Considering there are no other opportunities to get a decent look at these astonishing birds, the price is unfairly excessive and just one more example of how access to wild places and species is being throttled by exclusive and commercial interests. The Albatross Centre is a trust but still: those prices. Not cool. |  |
 Other interesting species frequent Aramona beach including New Zealand Sea Lions. We were once on the rickety Aramoana wharf with our nephew when a massive black shape cleaved the water just a few metres directly below; though my first thought was Great White, it lumbered out onto the sand as a mighty black pinniped. Their heavy shag, blunt dog faces and sheer massive presence (3.5m/450kg) are hard to convey if you've never had the pleasure. The words sand bear definitely spring to mind. |  |
Advice for photographers visiting Dunedin: Aramoana is a primo, subject-rich site. Access is free and relatively easy for peeps without mobility issues, but there is no public transport to or from. Early morning offers the best light and an often human-free window and penguins, seals, dolphins, birds and whales are frequent visitors. Locals can sometimes get pissy with strangers poking about their private properties in the small adjacent township; there was a gun massacre here in the early nineties which many people are not keen to discuss with nosey tourists. Much of the area is a wetland sanctuary so it's best not to drive all over it or let your dogs and kids harass protected species. The fishing and diving from the beach and mole can be pretty good; there are local catch limits that you can view here.
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