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Photos du Jour: Late Winter Walk over the top of Port Chalmers

11/10/2019

 
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The waterlogged Sea Scouts barge was finally chainsawed into nothingness a month or so ago.  RIP its rotten old timbers.  We will miss its picturesque obsolescence.
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​Port's domestic structure is a whacky Victorian labyrinth of narrow little streets draped over the bulbous topography like a lace doily.  Some are no more than lanes to this day, with mossy banks encroaching on their shitty tarmac and insufficient room for two cars to pass abreast.  Frost can mean you slide backwards on the steep dips in the shade of the blobby ridge that runs lengthwise along the centre of the peninsula.  It's about 60m above sea level according to topographic maps, but it feels much higher than this, as you can probably see.  This represents yet another annoying discrepancy between my expectations and physical reality, so I just add another 200m or so in my mind in order to approach the preferred 300 m +/- range.  

People have won presidential office with this kind of stuff, so I'm just waiting on the whole salary and acclaim package.
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Bellbirds and Tuis rattle the dead branches of the blue gums as they clamber around them, looking for insects and shouting at each other; their language consists of fluting, bill clapping, cackling, sneezing, warbling, chiming and diving flights full of intimidating wing sounds like taffeta swooshed hard past your ear.

People dump their green waste in historically-designated slash unofficial middens on the side of the road, where it merges down into the tangled scrub below.
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From Island Terrace, the view becomes quite bougie, almost Riviera.  Well, it does if the fucking ugly Port Otago warehouse carbuncle is factored out.  At the present time, these are mostly grotty yachts, which is not as pejorative as it sounds.  They are the kind of hobby and old-school craft middle-aged people might remember their parents and grandparents owning, sitting quiescent for most of the year and puttering out into the greater harbour for a bit of fishing on summer weekends.  A few people live on them semi-permanently but there's not really a huge culture of that here, probably because housing was cheap until recently.  They are hauled up onto the tiny local winch dock for loving maintenance before being returned to their relatively affordable moorings.

It occurred to me the other day that the gentrification quickly gathering pace around Dunedin will sweep rich boaty twats and their launches into these scenes in a few short years.  They're turning up now on the weekends, so it's just a matter of time until Port becomes bland and middling enough for them to dimly recognise its advantages.  I know I always say doomy shit like this, but it's inevitable, isn't it?  They will demand upgrades and memberships and wharf extensions and all this will become another marina for property speculators in black 4WDs.  All those peculiarly unhappy tight-faced white men with disregarded golden retrievers and boats on trailers parked up on their double drives under spotless canvas covers, emblazoned with names like Blade, Samurai, Sea Eagle and Moonraker II.  And Vixxen.   With two x's, which is probably more apposite than they realise.

It's never Goodbye Remaining Equity, Bought This Fukken Thing To Impress My Side Piece or Half A Metre Smaller Than My Brother In Law's Boat, is it?  Lol.
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A fine stand of Cabbage Trees.  Not Cabbage Palms, confused northern hemisphere people.  They are in fact Lomandroideae or Agavoideae​, depending who you talk to.  Once again the chilled goods warehouse shits all over a formerly nice view; I cut it out below.

A lot of people destroy their Cabbage Trees or refuse to plant them because they drop their leaves.  Why not shoot the dog for breathing while you're at it?  
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I can't remember who built this hull-shaped rock sculpture on the southern end of Back Beach; think it was a local artist?  There's not much reference to it online and I don't think many people actually notice it for what it is.  Which is okay; sometimes art should sneak up on you.  As someone ruthlessly opposed to whimsical expression, I took a hard line at first and disliked it, but we've come to appreciate its moody ironies and also the kind of workpersonship that has seen it last in good shape for quite a while now.  It is appurtenant without being overly literal and seems perfectly content in its own mystery.  It thrives in the wild, coming and going with the tide.  It's not plastered with credits and sponsors.  It's the best piece of public art in the area.
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