It's about time some big baddies like Nars Train Bleu got the review attention they deserve, so here I go.
It's timely too, what with the most important hemisphere heading into winter. Not that seasonality ever influences my choice of lipstick and I don't know why it ever would; do we wear blue on rainy days? Yellow on sunny ones? I mean, my mental health wouldn't win any fucking ribbons, but I'd probably check myself in somewhere if I started that shit. Consider blackened shades in spring, if you are heading in that climatic direction. People may wonder about you, but so they fucking should.
There's no real point in making lipstick any darker than Train Bleu, because the intensive opacity just eats light and registers as black to the human eye. At full thickness, TB is an inky elderberry syrup or deeply-stewed blueberry when lit, and fully black with a grape skin margin in any kind of tilt or shadow.
But you don't need to go all tits-out with this colour. Because of the fabulous Velvet Matte formula, you can draw it on at half strength and rock a more visibly blue-dominant purple without looking like lead poisoning, I promise.
Let's talk a wee bit more about yay and nay, vis-à-vis le violet. There's not much middle ground between sulky, smells like encrusted Hot Topic-type manky darkness, and adult statement purple, is there? The difference is elusive; for reasons that escape me, Train Bleu is dominant and austere rather than angry and slutty. You won't look like you're wishing you still needed fake ID. The choice depths of its intense baked blueberry character is well illustrated in the stigmata swatches below. Perhaps it is its reference to the natural spectrum that keeps it classy.
Anyways: TB can be smudged out and smoothly gradated, as you can see below, and never fully dries down to the extent that you can't budge it. It's thick enough to feel persistently present on the lip, but it won't migrate embarrassingly or stain your mouth very much upon removal- always a bonus.
As with almost every super-dark lipstick, Train Bleu has some failings. It's just too perimortem-esque for the squeamish and will amplify dark eye bags and sallowness issues. You will need to moisturise very well if you have ashy skin. It will end up on your teeth at some point, which is odd for a matte. It is slightly, although not tortuously, drying. Those of us with full lips already know that it will skip the middle of our lower one unless thickly and patiently built there. Older bitches like myself may experience a very slight peripheral wander of the purple tint into our biddy wrinkles, though that effect is not particularly odious and can even seem artful.
On the whole, Nars Train Bleu is probably as dignified and utile as this sort of colour can be and I'm glad I acquired it. Its singularity demands an exclusive focus, so it's probably a mistake to contrive a competing eye situation. You could do a tiny hollow flick or a grey tightline, if you look too mooncalfish without a little something. My favourite TB look is minimal and sort of baby-eating; no mascara, brows powdered over. Halloween and Monday, taken care of.
Bite Beauty Licorice, Nars Terra de Feu, Vino, Sin, Bite Beauty Clove